Frequently asked questions

1. How can I get your offer sheet?
Please send the following information to us at sales@chinaxingyu.com
a. Company name and address
b. Telephone and Fax numbers
c. Website if applicable
d. Have you ordered motorcycles from China before?
e. If so, what quantity?
f. How do you market or plan on marketing the products?
g. Do you have or will have after sale customer service?

2, How could I get a sample?
Yes. If you can not buy our product in your local area we will ship a sample to you. You will be charged a sample price plus all related shipping costs. Express delivery charge depends on the quantity of the samples.

3. What is the production and delivery time?
Production is from 10 to 15 days, depending upon the high demand of our products.

4. What is the price of shipping of the container and can I use XINGYU Forwarder Company to do my shipping?
Depending upon the port of delivery, prices vary. You may use our forwarder for your shipping needs.

5. May I mix my container order?
Yes. 3 models for 20’ container. 4 models for 40’ and 40’ HQ container.

6. Can I use my own logo and design on XINGYU products?
Yes. OEM is welcomed. Depending on the job difficulty and quantity pricing varies.

7. May I visit your factory?
We always welcome customers to our factory. Nearest airport is YiWu. We will provide your ride from the airport to our factory. Before your trip please email us for further instructions.

8. Do you provide distributorship or sole agency?
Yes we do. There are many aspects to discuss before any agency is granted.

9. Do XINGYU models confirm to any European and USA regulations?
Yes. We are now have three model atv ,three model Go kart and Five model of motorcycle with EEC approved for the European market.
We have one model scooter and one model of pocket bike with DOT certificate, EPA will come on the middle date of March 2006.

10. Can I use VIN numbers on my order?
Yes at no extra charge.

1!. What kind of warranty does provide with their products?
We supply 3% free spare parts according to the quantity ordered and is included in the container.
Should you have problems due to part defect, please email us with pictures so as to see the problem. If we find the part is defective we will send the appropriate parts to you via Air Express. It is suggested to buy parts also so as to have stock for future customer service. If you have anyproblem in after-sale sevrece, please contact :


Questions about vehicles:

1, What are "two-strokes" and "four-strokes" and how do they differ?
A. There is a very important technical distinction between engine designs in the scooter world. "Two-stroke" engines burn the gas and lubricating oil together as part of the combustion process, which results in greater lower end torque, fewer moving parts and greater fuel efficiency. Unfortunately, this also means they pollute more, as unburned oil fumes exit the exhaust system. This is why two-strokes are being banned in many industrialized countries concerned with air quality. Virtually all classic scooters are two-stroke. The oldest models require "pre-mixing", which is simply pouring pre-measured oil into the gas tank when fueling. Newer models have eliminated this by adding oil injection systems that mix the oil and gas automatically. Vespas built after about 1978 typically have oil injection, but all Lambrettas are pre-mix only.

"Four-stroke" engines are more closely related to car engines, in that they keep the lubrication and fuel systems separate, which keeps emissions down considerably since there is no oil burned in the combustion process, unlike with "two-stroke" engines. Most modern scooters utilize four-stroke engines, though many modern scooters also use two-stroke engines, especially in 50cc models. One major disadvantage of four-stroke engines is that they are prone to overheating when run at maximum speed over several hours, leading to serious internal damage. Two-stroke engines do not have this limitation. Either engine design may be either water or air-cooled, though most two-strokes are air-cooled or most four-strokes are water-cooled.

2, how to maintenance ATV well?

1) Wash your bike after every ride, as you dry it off inspect all the fasteners and levers, ride the bike for a minute to dry out the brake pads. Apply WD40 to all the pivots, levers and exhaust pipe to prevent rust and premature wear.

2) Use the proper tools for the job at hand, wrenches ratchets and hands do not make good hammers nor do screwdrivers make proper pry bars or gasket scrapers.

3) Old toothbrushes make good small parts cleaners and detail brushes for small nooks and crannies.

4) When removing bearings from cases use a propane torch to heat the case or housing, this will make the housing let go of the bearing. Freeze the new bearing prior to installation, it will easily drop into its bore.

5) When removing axles, pins or other shafts, wiggle them as you pull them out, avoid banging them out as you can mushroom the end of the shaft and ruin it.

6) If it becomes necessary to remove the flywheel from your machine, you must use the proper threaded "inside" puller, do not use a three jaw outside puller as this will crush your flywheel and cost you much more than the proper tool would have.

7) Use Mop’n Glo or other floor polish on the plastic to keep it shiny and slick so mud will fall off.

8 )Maintain air filters regularly and have clean ones ready to go for long rides, the harder you work at maintaining the air filters the longer your engine will last.

9) Check your tire pressures for every ride, ATV tires are inherently leaky.

10) Run higher tire pressures for rocky conditions or for high speed riding.

11) Check the battery connection before each ride, if you spot any corrosion you can neutralize it with a mixture of baking soda and water.

12) Check the cables for proper free play before each ride. Clutch cables (2-3mm) which are too tight will cause the clutch to slip and then fail. Set the throttle cable free play at 1mm, too tight is dangerous and too loose will not open the carburetor all the way.

13) If your throttle spring tension is too much, you can grind down the edge of the spring on a grinder to make the wire thinner, don’t cut coils from the spring this can actually make it stiffer.

14) Replace the hydraulic brake and clutch fluid once each year to prevent gum and deposits from fouling the system, corroded calipers sometimes cannot be rebuilt, only replaced at a high cost.

15) Don’t leave your machine in gear to keep it from rolling in the back of the truck, this will damage the gearbox in a hurry. Utilize your parking brake or put a zip-tie around the front brake.

16) Service the rear suspension linkage and swingarm pivot bolt once a year, the factories don’t put enough grease in when they build the machine, and these parts are expensive to replace if they wear out.

17) Grab the tops of the tires and pull outward on them to check the condition of the ball joints and wheel bearings.

18) Lift up on your front bumper and watch the front suspension arm pivots as the suspension tops out, you may see some free play at the pivots indicating wear.

19) Remove the axle on a regular basis, check the bearings by hand, if they feel crunchy or stiff then replace them, failure to replace the axle bearings will cause the machine to handle poorly.

20) When replacing the axle bearings, heat the carrier up with a propane torch first, this will loosen the housings grip on the bearings and they will come out much easier than cold.

21 To check the condition and wear of the chain, try to pull the chain off the sprockets at a point where the swingarm would intersect the back of the sprocket, if you can pull the chain off the sprocket more than ½ the length of a sprocket tooth the chain is shot.

22 )Lube the chain just after a ride while the chain is still warm, the lubricant will penetrate better.

23) If you ride aggressively or are bottoming the rear suspension regularly, have your shock re-valved by a professional. You will go faster, safer and your machine will last much longer.

24) When replacing the spark plug use an exact replacement, the spark plug is an electrical component just like a coil or CDI box and any deviation from standard could burn out other components.

25) When you replace the clutch friction plates, scuff the metal driven plates on flat concrete or sandblast them. This will give the clutch more bite and extend the friction plate life.

26) If you have painted your frame, tap all the threaded holes with a thread tap before you cross thread any bolts. File the paint off the motor mounts, so that the engine doesn’t loosen up prematurely.